We took a three week self booked trip to Costa Rica with our two children in April 2018. So far this goes down as one of our best holidays ever even though there were some serious downs; luckily they were far outweighed by our amazing experiences in this friendly and stunningly beautiful country.
Days 17-23. Bioluminescence, boating, forests and bees on the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica
Continuing around the stunningly beautiful country of Costa Rica. 6 days of forest hikes, bioluminescence, boating, injuries and bees – lots and lots of bees!
Follow our story below and read on for accomodation and activity reviews, logistical information and costing.
Day 17 – Missed ferry from Puntarenas and forest fires on the Nicoya Peninsula Costa Rica
We left the Guaria Hotel at 8.15 to head to the ferry port at Puntarenas on the coast. It should have been a 1 hour 20 mins drive down the Cametera Interamerica (the major road down through the Central American countries) but although we made good progress initially we were stopped by roadworks (which seemed to be frequent) and then came down out of the mountains following a trail of lorries who were travelling very slowly.
In typical style Costa Rica style the ferry at Puntarenas was signposted frequently for the first half hour, then when we reached the actual turn off from the main road there were none – so we missed it! In the end we missed the 10am ferry by quite a bit so we stopped for a play on the shorefront (there are various shaded playgrounds) and for a super leisurely lunch (in a white 2 storey building on the seafront side of the road for a burger, whole fish, prawn pasta and chicken with rice. All were good. Grabbed some food from the Mega Super there and got on the 2.30 ferry to Playa Naranjo.
Our landlord, Errol, was waiting for us at the other side to show us the 5 min drive to their place – Casa Bugambilia which was just up the hill from the ferry port.
Despite Errol telling us when we arrived that the area had suffered serious forest fires 2 weeks before which had driven off a lot of the wildlife I saw many birds in the garden within the first 30 mins of arrival and a troupe of gibbons climbed through the trees in the valley below – clearly visible without the leaves.
Errol was explaining how he and the man who lives on site – Rafa the Mountain Man – had been there with buckets trying to save the property! Everything around was blackened which was a real shame and very disappointing initially as what had looked so beautiful online was a charred mess. He also explained that since the fire the bees were all coming in to drink from the pool – it was covered with a cloud of hundreds of bees! Rafa hosed them away patiently and the kids did go in for a swim – you just had to be careful getting in and then swim with the bees flying about half a metre above you. Swimming with bees – another new experience!
Dinner was an extravagant bread and honey, some free beers Errol had put in the fridge for us followed by the best nights sleep in ages – air conditioning we love you!
Day 18 – pool time and a local footie match
A lazy day. I was up early for an hours birdspotting after dawn, wandering down some of the roads around the property amongst the charred trees. There were still birds around and I saw lots of new species in this area of Costa Rica.
The rest of the day was spent in the pool, sorting trips and sunbathing.
We had run out of cash as we hadn’t expected the extra week so drove to the nearest cash point in Jicoral and to get sausages for the BBQ. Errol had recommended a restaurant so we tried to find it for lunch. Not sure we found the right one but there were no others along the road! A proper locals place with no tourists who spoke not one word of English. Good job our Spanish was improving! The food was fine and super cheap even if the restaurant itself was super basic, effectively a shack opposite the football ground in Lepanto. Chris was happy as we watched the start of a local football match there after lunch.
Day 19 – Cabo Blanco
Up early for a drive to Tambor for a guided tour of Cabo Blanco (saved Chris a few hours driving).
We met our guide in the Tambour Tropical Hotel car park and the place looked lovely, right on the coast, all wooden and lush and there were loads of wild Scarlett Macaws which next there in boxes over the car park – go have a look if you’re in the area!
The roads in this area are meant to be the worst in Costa Rica and we believed it! The road is unpaved for most of the way between Playa Naranjo and Paquera (20km) and very potholed so this bit is slow going. Totally passable in a 2wd though and the slow speed allowed me to do lots of birdwatching from the car! Lots of motmots on route 🙂
Jason from Pura Vida was very nice and drove us to Cabo Blanco pointing out trees and birds. The kids played a new game of guess the animal in 20 questions. We were glad we had chosen to get Jason to drive us in the 4×4 as we were not sure our 2WD would have made this bit of the road from Montezuma to Cabo Blanco – lots of roots across the road.
We arrived at the park at 9am and did the 2km trail. There were quite a few people on this one – the busiest trails we’d been on and it was hot! Jason was brilliant and really knew his animals. As it was just us he didn’t rush us around and was happy to share his knowledge from growing up in the jungle locally with us. The birding highlight were the Long-tailed Manakins doing their dance of jumping over each other (think Life of Birds). We also saw lots of coatis walking close by, one right in front of Aiden; his face was great!
There were Blue Morpho’s (massive blue butterflies) everywhere and the Howler monkeys having a battle and making a racket. It was eerie walking through the jungle and hearing their roars all around you, even when you know what they are.
After our favourite snack of fresh pineapple back at the car we headed for a lunch in Montezuma – Jason ordered us Casado – a traditional dish served on a plantain leaf of rice, salad, beans, squash and potato salad with a meat. The pork, fish and chicken were all great. I’m not sure of the name but it was up a steep gravel path opposite a beach at the Cabo Blanco end of town) with great views.
Back home for a round of pool and pasta for tea.
Day 20 – Curu and bioluminescence
Lazy morning at home in the pool playing, then continuing to teach the kids pool. After lunch of leftover pasta we headed to Curu Wildlife Refuge for about 3.15pm. To get here you drive through a cattle park where we saw loads of White tipped Deer and a Bare-throated Tiger Heron in the river plus tons of crabs in the mangrove mud. In the car park we saw two racoons, howlers and an iguana! We walked out down the coast past the cabins to the Mirador and saw loads of Capuchins, a coati and Scarlet Macaws. They all seemed slightly tame and didn’t mind us being around at all – the closest we got to a lot of the wildlife.
I left the others on the beach whilst I went for a walk down the mangrove trail where I saw a deer really close and two more agouti but not many birds.
Then we headed up to the Mirador (lookout point) for views across the beach and bay
We were there for the Bioluminescence tour with Curu tours at 5pm. About 10 of us (mostly couples on a romantic trip to see the sunset) got into the boat as the sun was setting and headed out to the Quesara beach. Unfortunately, to get into the beach we had to jump off the boat and swim in due to the tide and the waves and as Evie and I were walking in a freak wave hit us. I saw it and tried to lift Evie up as I was going to go over her head and possibly mine). In hindsight this probably put us off balance and we went tumbling and were pushed up the beach. I landed on Evie as we fell and the beach seemed to be made of super sharp stones so I could feel we were getting shredded. Evie’s foot and knee were pretty cut up, as was my leg. Not much we could do for her on a random beach and all the tour guys could do was wash some of the salt water and blood off. We managed to cheer her up with some hermit crab racing whilst watching the sunset and waiting for the real event – the bioluminescence.
A sudden shout in the dwindling light announced that the boat was back in and so we ran around in the half dark trying to find our things and get our kids back on the boat. Drifting back with our hands dangling in the water we gradually started to see little sparkles in the water. They became more obvious as it got dark and the boat stopped so we could get out and snorkel. Evie bravely jumped back in and tried snorkelling again (we’d practiced in the pool after the last time so she was better prepared) which was great as she was totally captivated by the sight. Every movement created load of sparkles so it was like trailing fairy dust from your hands and feet. Everyone was surrounded by a glow which Evie thought was the best thing ever. Aiden was surprisingly fairly unimpressed (he was probably tired as it was 7pm by this point).
We headed for shore, showered under the hose and changed in the car park before driving back along the unpaved road in the dark. Thought we were in trouble though as I closed the boot with the car keys in and it wouldn’t open again. Luckily Chris found the button in the car and we were saved – could definitely have done without that!
Day 21 – Island boat tour with locals
We drove to Gigante for 7.30 (to ‘outside the football pitch’) to meet a local fisherman and his wife (Olga and Snr Lee) with a boat after our excellent landlord Errol and his English speaking friend Larry sorted us out.
He walked us down to his house where we could park our car and we boarded his fishing boat. They took us on a totally bespoke tour of Bird Island (Pajaro) where the pelicans and frigatebirds nest. Whilst we drove around the island they produced some fish which we threw from the boat so the frigatebirds and pelicans would come close. It’s very hard to photograph a diving frigatebird, but we did manage to get this pelican eating our offering.
Then they took us to Isles Tortuga (Turtle Island) which is a big tourist pull (groups come on day trips from San Jose for day trips to snorkel here and visit the beaches on the Island). It hadn’t sounded like something we wanted to do for the money but we wanted to try snorkelling again now that Evie had practiced in the swimming pool and this was the solution we’d come up with with Errol. Perfect.
Unfortunately for us (and even more unfortunately for all the expensive day trippers) the water was super murky that day and so we couldn’t really see anything. Barely a single fish. Evie’s foot was hurting too in the salt water so we gave up and they took us on a trip around the island instead.
After a stop for some fresh pineapple (which will never get old), they tried stopping on another island on the way back as they knew that the water should be clearer, it was but there weren’t many fish to see.
Back on the boat to head home. Along the way Olga and Snr lee shared their tuna mayo on crackers with us, which is still a favourite snack months on!
All in all this trip cost us about 100mil and for us was much more idea than paying more to snorkel and sit on the beach with everyone else! It was lovely to chat to Olga about their lives as fishermen and enjoy being out on the water. The kids had a great time.
After saying goodbye to our guides we tried to eat at the Roma del Mar on the way. It was closed for some reason so we tried La Perla Negra in Playa Naranjo instead which was certainly an experience! The whole place is pirate/sea themed with lots of wall paintings. The main room was big and would make a great ocean themed bar in the evening. A really quirky place of which we were the only guests, so we had a good chat to the owner including a tour of the rooms where you can stay. The American owner is making ocean themed bedrooms, a pool, play boat etc so this will be a great place for families to stay (we visited in Apr 2018 so it’s probably done now – look it up!!). The food was good and very cheap – the kids shared an arroz con pollo for c3mil (chicken and rice £1.46!).
Back for 45mins in the pool with Aiden practicing his swimming – up to 5 strokes before sinking! Then a final game of pool, packing and a chilled evening in the hammocks eating hot dogs. Time to end the holiday (this time for real surely?).
Day 22 – Leaving Costa Rica take 2 part 1
We were up and out early to the ferry but left our water bottles and fruit in the fridge – muppets!
Ferry back over was very straightforward and we tried the 27 road back this time which was much better – so fast and the tolls were not bad.
We headed back to the Embassy, picked up the ETD’s (Emergency travel documents) which were ready and waiting this time thankfully, returned the car and headed to the Guaria Hotel (again!). Rather than KFC again we found a reasonable restaurant which we had to ourselves, although it was not cheap. The food was ok (burger, shrimps and rice and a sandwich). They brought us a free dessert typical of Costa Rica though which was nice of them. Ice, strawberry syrup and condensed milk. The kids weren’t a fan.
Day 23 – Leaving Costa Rica take 2 part 2
Up very early and took the free shuttle back to the airport (prearranged). And there the fun started. At the check in desk our ETD’s were met with confused faces and that glancing down at the screen and then back up again at us look which never means anything good. After a quick discussion with a colleage we were informed that these documents can’t be used to board the place to Mexico. We were not impressed and after arguing that our Embassy had categorically stated that we could, a couple more phone calls to Mexico airport and some suggestion that we would need to pay extra for some other sort of document to get in, another lady came over, took one look, said everything was fine and sent us on our way. Phew! By this time we were late for our plane so breakfast was a hastily grabbed takeaway waffle rather than the leisurely seated affair we’d planned. At least we were on the plane though. Finally on the way home.
Next stop Mexico City where we had a one day stopover before reaching England.
Reviews
Accommodation reviews
Casa Bugambilia
We stayed at this 2 bed bungalow on the hilltops for 6 nights. It’s set on a hill top just above the port at Playa Naranja so very easy to get to via ferry from Puntarenas.
There’s a private pool, a pool table, covered outdoor table and a covered hammock area with great views.
The air conditioning was a blessing in the heat, and we appreciated having a proper kitchen with sofas for the first time since we arrived. The kitchen was well equipped too.
We arrived just a couple of weeks after a forest fire had ravaged the area so much of the surrounding vegetation was brown but the ocean views were still great.
There’s a man who lives in a hut to the side who maintains the property (and sits around outside when you’re not out there). If you go outside he does make himself scarce but we did find this a bit odd – especially when he fell asleep on one of the deckchairs and we went in the pool.
We booked this via Bookings.com for £676.
Activity Reviews
Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve
Overview
Cabo Blanco was the country’s first area protected for nature conservation, effectively the first National Park since 1963.
It consists of over 1,200 hectares of moist tropical forest, mainly secondary but 15% is primary forest. This is off limits to the public to protect it.
There are two open trails, the 1.5km Danes trail and the 4.2km Sueco trail to the beach (it is recommended to allow 4 hours for this trail).
Costs
The park is open from 8am-4pm Wednesday to Sunday only. It costs $12 to enter.
Getting there
We’d recommend a 4×4 if you drive, but there are also buses from Montezuma and Cabuya which go 4 times a day.
Our tour
We found a tour by Pura Vida Expeditions online whilst searching for a tour guide in the park (although it seems that they no longer offer this trip). It would have been a long drive on unpaved roads from Playa Naranja so we wanted to break the drive up for Chris and do the last bit in a 4×4. I’m glad we did as looking at some of the tree roots we crossed as we approched the car park, I’m not sure we’d have got the 2wd car over without damage!
We met in the Tambour Tropical Hotel car park where our guide, Jason, then took us off in his 4×4 for the final part of the drive.
Jason was brilliant and really knew his animals. As it was just us he didn’t rush us around and was happy to share his knowledge from growing up in the jungle locally.
We arrived at the park at 9am and did the 2km trail. There were quite a few people on this one – the busiest trails we’d been on and it was hot!
Our private tour including guide, 4wd to the park and lunch was £200 for the four of us. Which is pricey, but the Montezuma end is pretty touritsy and most of the tours here cost a bit.
Food and drink options
The tour included some fresh pinapple when we arrived at the park and a traditional Costa Rican lunch in a Montezuma restaurant afterwards. He had also brought some drinks to have on the way around.
No other options for refreshments unless you bring your own.
Practicalities
We only walked 2km but it was super hot – bring drinks!!
Wildlife
We saw Scarlet Macaws nesting in the car park of the Tambour Tropical Hotel. The birding highlight was the Long-tailed Manakins doing their dance of jumping over each other (think Life of Birds). We also saw lots of coatis walking close by, one right in front of Aiden; his face was great!
The park is also a refuge for many seabirds which can be seen by taking the trail to the coast. A large portion is under water, making it an important site for marine life too.
Curu WiIdlife Refuge
Overview
Curu is privately owned and part of a large farm which combines sustainable agriculture and forest management with the protection of wildlife and nature.
It is approximately 5% reserve, 75% protected forest and 20% low impact agriculture.
There are five different habitat types in the reserve; coastal/marine, mangrove swamps, tropical dry and moist forest, as well as farmland.
Getting there
The entrance to the Curu Wildlife Reserve is on the main road from Paquera to Cobano, 6 km from Paquera and 16 km from Tambor.
Costs
Opening hours are 7am to 3pm every day and it costs $15 per person per day to enter.
Tours/Activity
We did the Bioluminescence Tour here, which involves going out on a boat to a beach to have snacks and watch the sunset and then heading back in the dark. Once it’s dark the sea lights up with little sparkles from the bioluminescence when it comes into contact with something. They stop the boat so you can get in and snorkel amongst it – it looks like you’re spouting fairy dust from your fingers so it’s pretty magical! $200 for the four of us, including park entry.
Food and drink options
None – take your own.
Practicalities
There is a toilet here and a hose to shower off with after you have been in the sea.
Wildlife
We saw so many animals just in the car park here and they are seemed tamer than elsewhere. Iguanas, Howlers, Capuchins, Raccoons, Coati.
Sustainability/Eco friendly rating
As a private farm that’s left 80% of their land to forest they’re doing pretty well. They also claim to donate 40% of profits on their tours to projects which help the environment.
Transport reviews
Puntarenas Ferry to Playa Naranjo
This ferry takes you from Puntarenas to Playa Naranja which saves many hours of driving around the coast to the end of the peninsula.
It cost $25 for a car and one person and $1.50 for each additional person.
The boat was bigger than expected with a bar and music.
The journey took approx. 90 minutes to cross and was pleasant with a cool breeze and views to the two shores.
Logistics
We had out own car to drive to the ferry at Puntarenas and around the peninsula. This was 2WD and generally did the job, although I think to get to Cabo Blanco would require a 4×4.
Costs
Coming soon…